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CommentAuthorentartetemuzak
- CommentTimeSep 8th 2008 edited
I finished building my Arduinome the other day. Afer quite a lot of soldering I was happy to assemble it.
Unfortunately I must have attached the cables to the shield the wrong way since my Arduinome is not working properly.
I forsaw this kind of problem so I decided to use pcb connectors rather than soldering the cables directly to the pcbs.
I'm using 4x4 sparkfun button pcbs (8x8 matirx) and the unsped shield.
This is a representation of how I connected the cables.
(can't do a technical drawing since I'm a big noob at this)
http://i38.tinypic.com/s2fgd3.jpg -
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CommentAuthorxndr
- CommentTimeSep 8th 2008
The uploaded tinypic picture isn't showing...?
I suggest disconnecting all wires and to use a few wires to temporary connect maybe one ledrow and button row. Can you confirm that your Arduino is functioning correctly? Try uploading a blinking led sketch or something simple to blink the ledpin (13). -
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CommentAuthorentartetemuzak
- CommentTimeSep 8th 2008
can't you see the pic?
The link works for me at least.
Try the PDF.
I did connect just one row in different setups and I got all of the leds blinking (not just at the same time). But no respons from monome_base_test. -
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- CommentAuthorphsr
- CommentTimeSep 8th 2008
Are you using ArduinomeSerial? -
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CommentAuthorentartetemuzak
- CommentTimeSep 8th 2008
Yes
I followed the guide on this site:
http://www.julienbayle.net/diy/LiveInterface/
Downloading the last version of Arduinomeserial router
You need to download and install the .NET Framework 3.5 : download it here
You need to download and install the Arduinome Serial router: download it here. (last version: 3.1.1)
Flashing the arduino
The following was written by Melka on the Arduino forums but freely modified to use with the last version of code.
you have to install Mprog and the D2XX drivers from FTDI (your arduino will still work with the arduino development environement with these drivers !!)
MProg 3.0 > http://www.ftdichip.com/Resources/Utilities.htm
D2XX Drivers > http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/D2XX.htm
1/ Install both, then run Mprog
2/ Launch Mprog, then click on Device / Scan. You should see something like this appearing in the box down.
Number Of Blank Devices = 0
Number Of Programmed Devices = 1
3/ Click on Tools > Read and Parse. This will fill the boxes.
4/ Check the “use fixed serial number” box and change the value below.
To have your board recognized as a monome by monome serial, you have to enter something like a40h-xxx (I'm using : a40h-001)
5/ Click on File > save as
6/ Once saved, click on the flash icon ( or Ctrl+P).
7/ Unplug / plug back your board from the usb port.
7/ Run Arduinomeserial, you should see something appear on the devices list.
Testing your pretty* arduino-based monome clone
Download this zip file built by folks of monome (link)
1/ Launch Arduinomeserial and choose OpenSound Control, down cable orientation.
2/ Launch the max/msp patch called monome_test.maxpat
3/ Test your stuff -
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CommentAuthorentartetemuzak
- CommentTimeSep 8th 2008
The ArduinoSerial seems to upload properly and the device is recogniced by the Monome Serial Prog as well as by MProg. -
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- CommentAuthorJordan Hochenbaum
- CommentTimeSep 8th 2008
have you tried any other patch? also make sure you have monome serial in the proper mode (osc or midi)...etc
what exactly are you seeing happen? -
- CommentAuthorunsped
- CommentTimeSep 8th 2008 edited
the best way to initially troubleshoot the arduinome imho. is open up the arduino environment, and tell it to listen to the comport. short one button ground to button + at the idc connectors (before attaching idc cables). if everything is working you will see the arduino send a serial command for a button press.
if that works, then attach the button pad and repeat, its easy to get the wrong orientation on the cables so you may try a few things and double check you have it right. led's in general don't mind backwards polarity they just won't light up so i think the risk of hurting anything is fairly low. -
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CommentAuthorentartetemuzak
- CommentTimeSep 8th 2008 edited
I tried to upload the standard blink sketch and that worked if I didn't use the sheild, so there is nothing wrong with te button pcbs or the Arduino. (except for one thing that was strange: one row was blue instead of green, I changed to blue to see if there was a odd connection, but I got the same result - blue. The only way I could change colour was to use red - so now all leds are red to match that odd row. I checked my soldering and it looked fine. Can't say I understand it).
Is the blink sketch supposed to work when the shield is connected?
I can't get it to work no matter how I connect the cables to the shield.
If it doesn't, have I ruined the shield when soldering? -
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- CommentAuthorunsped
- CommentTimeSep 8th 2008
the blink sketch i doubt would work with the shield connected. can you get a high resolution picture of the shield soldered? -
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CommentAuthorxndr
- CommentTimeSep 8th 2008
The blink led sketch should still work with the shield attached since it only uses pin13 (which is not connected to the shield). I'm only not so sure if you can see the small smd led with the shield directly above it...
A high rez picture of your board (both sides) would be great to see if we can discover something that might be causing problems.
Did you check IC orientation? Bridged pads/connections on the pcb? Static electricity damage? -
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- CommentAuthorJordan Hochenbaum
- CommentTimeSep 9th 2008
it really makes me happy to see so everyone chiming in and helping... ill be on my way to new york (our touch table is at Minitek) early in the morning but will check in as much as possible to offer help...etc
I third hi-res photos to see if I can spot anything... happy arduinoming! -
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CommentAuthorentartetemuzak
- CommentTimeSep 9th 2008
Here are some photos:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/entartetemuzak
I managed to make a mistake soldering the shield. I placed some of the conn headers on the wrong side, so I warmed them up with my soldering iron and pushed them through to the other side... not pretty, but it saved me from desoldering the whole row. :-/ -
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CommentAuthorentartetemuzak
- CommentTimeSep 9th 2008
Btw are the connections in the PDF correct? -
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CommentAuthorxndr
- CommentTimeSep 9th 2008 edited
I think your problem might be with the rows of pinheaders.. If I understand correctly your shield will sit on your arduino, but it will be angled because of the missing row of black plastic, right?
The pinheaders are pretty picky about their connections, so there's probably one that doesn't make good contact. If you want to remove the row pinheaders it's easy to clip away the plastic first, after that you can push the metal pins out one at a time...
Edit: try connecting the pins with wires when it's not on top of the arduino.. These are always handy to have around: http://www.accu-totaal.nl/product_images/gd_main_1098_.jpg (in isolated version). -
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CommentAuthorentartetemuzak
- CommentTimeSep 9th 2008
I desoldered the pins and added new ones so so the shield isn't tilting anymore. It looks more pretty but it didn't change the overall performance.
The only thing that happens when I connect it to the usb port is that a led in the bottom left corner (see PDF) glows purple (!) (and that isn't the row I was having problems getting the right colour on). -
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- CommentAuthorunsped
- CommentTimeSep 9th 2008
just checking, you soldered the sockets in first, then pressed the chips in after?
given all the wierd color issues, im a little curious about the buttonpads.
have you tried shorting one 164 switch pin on the in idc, to one 165 switch pin on the out idc connector and seeing if you get serial communication? you can also short a single led across the in and out on the appropriate led segments as well, but its harder to get the monome into a state where the led would light. (full on in the test app is probably the easiest) -
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CommentAuthorentartetemuzak
- CommentTimeSep 9th 2008
Yes sockets first, then chips.
I had a spare shield, so I soldered that today and gave it a try.
The led in the corner is now off, however I still can't get the darn thing to work!
I'm afraid I wouldn't know how to follow your suggestion. Sorry, too much noob for that. -
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CommentAuthorentartetemuzak
- CommentTimeSep 9th 2008 edited
I switched some connections and managed to get all the leds on at the same time. However no respons from monome_base_test.
Attaching new setup.
Tried moving movig the other cables around, but no luck so far as to get thing working with monome_base_test -
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CommentAuthorentartetemuzak
- CommentTimeSep 10th 2008 edited
I went over the setup again (checking with this: http://www.julienbayle.net/diy/LiveInterface/8x8ArduinoMonomeClone.png)
and the first layout seems to be correct. It seemed that I had reversed some connections the first time.
When I connect the arduino to the usb port the leds blink in a waterfall effect, which I guess is the start up pattern. Still no respons in monome_base_test though.
I'm fresh out of ideas. :( -
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- CommentAuthorunsped
- CommentTimeSep 10th 2008 edited
is the serial port speed set correctly for your operating system? look in the firmware, mac and pc are different.
you may also try renaming the arduinome to m40h-xxx and trying monomeserial. a good indication that you are doing the naming correctly is that it will show up in the dropdown for monomeserial.
also try running the arduino environment, reset the board with the reset button and click the comport listening button, then hit buttons on the keypad... does the comport log window display anything? -
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CommentAuthorentartetemuzak
- CommentTimeSep 10th 2008 edited
I think I have some problems with loose cables since some of the leds works from time to time.
The device show up in monomeserial. either it is a40h or m40h.
And I recently got some respons from monome_base_test, but the light stuck when I draw on the testboard (just some of the leds glow). And then after I press "clear" everything disapears and I get no respons after that. If I instead try to remove the lights by pressing on the same spot again they disappear and not to be seen again unless I reboot the Arduino.
Each time I press a light in monome_base_test (inside the 40h 8x8 matrix) the Arduino led flicker so there is no problem there.
If I press a button on the keypad in the Arduino enviroment I get two figures in the status window (eg. þþ or ýÿ and so on)
One button (in the top corner) gives feedback in monome_base_test, but when I press it the first time it is in the right place, the second time its reflected both vertically and horizontally. Also the ADC (3 and 4) shows some values if I press that button. -
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- CommentAuthorhlp
- CommentTimeSep 10th 2008
If you're touching the backside of the keypad breakout board with your fingers, try not to. I've done that a couple of times with my kit (I'm a newbie as well). It'll make connections. -
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CommentAuthorentartetemuzak
- CommentTimeSep 10th 2008
Yes so I have noticed. -
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- CommentAuthortehn
- CommentTimeSep 10th 2008
get a volt meter. learn how to use it. do continuity checks to make sure your solders and cables actually are making contact.
solder is not glue. building electronics is not like building legos. there's more than a visual component.
http://tangentsoft.net/elec/movies/tt06.html
full list of helpful tutorials:
http://tangentsoft.net/elec/movies/ -
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CommentAuthorentartetemuzak
- CommentTimeSep 10th 2008
Yes I have a volt meter.
And I know at least some soldering.
But thank you none the less.
The part I don't know is electronics, well at least not as much as I would want to for this project, but I learnt a good deal just by fiddling around with this.
I think the main problem here - besides my ignorance when it comes to the Arduino - is that I used pcb connectors instead of soldering the cables to the pcbs. I'm noticing that they aren't that reliable. I'll probably get rid of the connectors and solder the cables directly to the pcb instead. -
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- CommentAuthortehn
- CommentTimeSep 10th 2008
good point about the connectors. they're always a major point of failure.
what i was really suggesting was tracing leads between components. for example, see if a leg of one led is *really* connected to that pin of the 7221. check the schematic, then confirm connections where you suspect problems. -
- CommentAuthorwilcox
- CommentTimeSep 11th 2008
any luck fixing this problem? -
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CommentAuthorentartetemuzak
- CommentTimeSep 12th 2008
Yes I did it!
It seems I missed that I had to use Arduinomeserial program and not the standard Monomeserial. The serial port speed was wrong in Monomeserial (which is mentioned in Arduinomeserial Firmware). Thank you unsped for the hint! I replaced some bad idc cables as well (which caused drop outs).
I'm attaching the wiring scheme for my setup (same as the first, but less messy).
Thanks all for helping. -
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- CommentAuthortehn
- CommentTimeSep 12th 2008
glad you got it to work, and great schematic! could you post it to the wiki?
yes, the "clear" really only "clears" the matrix, which turns off any of the "on" leds. it'd be sensible to modify the patch to also send a /clear message to the device to ensure complete clear-ness. -
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CommentAuthorentartetemuzak
- CommentTimeSep 14th 2008
I added a link to the PDF in the Arduinome Wiki. -
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- CommentAuthorphsr
- CommentTimeSep 14th 2008
Is it just the switches or the leds that have the wiring reversed? And why are they reversed? I will be putting my arduinome together soon. -
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CommentAuthorentartetemuzak
- CommentTimeSep 14th 2008
I just followed this: http://www.julienbayle.net/diy/LiveInterface/8x8ArduinoMonomeClone.png
Can't say why something is put in a particular way. Sorry. -
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CommentAuthorxndr
- CommentTimeSep 14th 2008
@dseaver: Was the arduinome facepate PDF I sent you of any help? I believe we still have to do some experiments with DXF/DWG file types? -
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- CommentAuthorphsr
- CommentTimeSep 14th 2008
My uncle just took my button pads and is making new drawings since we are going to used different hardware